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Archive for the ‘paris’ Category

Hugo Cabret inspired: Paris in the 1930s

November 30, 2011 12:57 pm
posted by Rebecca

1930s Paris gets the 3D touch in Hugo Cabret

Martin Scorsese’s new film Hugo Cabret is the story of a young orphan who lives in the walls of a bustling 1930s Paris train station, maintaining the clocks and working on his late father’s greatest ambition – a broken mechanical man. You can watch the Hugo Cabret trailer here:

To mark the imminent release of this magical film we thought we’d pay homage to its lavish back drop – Paris in the 1930s… an almost mythical decade when Hollywood vied with couture in Parisian fashion and electricity ignited the city for a new, modern era.  All to the backdrop of a groovy jazz soundtrack

And for starters here is a video of Paris in the ‘beautiful 1930s’ – and it’s not hard to see why this decade was chosen for Hugo Cabret’s fantastical world.

Artists in 1930s Paris 

1930’s Paris served as a flame to artistic souls, who were drawn to the City of Light, the world capital for the avant garde of free thinking intellectuals. Picasso and Hemmingway, Balthus and Louis Armstrong are just some of the names associated with the city during the ‘30s, when it became a hotbed of writers, artists and sculptors, film-makers and musicians.

Picasso's painting of the minotaur, the monster of Greek mythology—half bull and half human

The city also became the centre for the Surrealist movement, attracting the likes of Salvador Dali, Joan Miró, Marcel Duchamp and Man Ray.

Salvador Dalí and Man Ray in Paris, June 16, 1934, making "wild eyes" by Carl Van Vechte

Entertainment in 1930s Paris

French filmmakers such as Jean Renoir and René Clair – Paris born and bred – were amongst the vanguard, as Cinema became a recognised art form.

Film poster for ‘Under the Roofs of Paris’ by René Clair, 1930

From Edith Piaf, discovered in the Pigalle area of Paris by nightclub owner Louis Leplée in 1935, to Charles Trenet and Jean Sablon, Paris was also a hotbed of musical talent.

Jazz clubs were all the rage, with the likes of legendary jazz singer and dancer, Josephine Baker, taking the scene by storm.

Fashion in 1930s Paris

On set of Hugo Cabret... Costumes were designed by Sandy Powell

Paris fashion houses kicked off the decade with a return to the higher waist, longer skirt and the tighter silhouette line. But as the ‘30s progressed, theatrical costumes from the movies began to make an impact…

The 1930 spring issue of Good Housekeeping looks to the latest fashionable styles from Paris.

Hollywood had a lot to answer for in terms of the major fashions of the 1930s and Paris couture was no exception. Influential Parisian designer, Lucien LeLong said: ”We, the couturiers, can no longer live without the cinema any more than the cinema can live without us.  We corroborate each others’ instinct.”

Italian born Elsa Schiaparelli – or “Schiap” as she was known to friends in Paris – was another designer to embrace Hollywood, dressing several stars along the way including Mae West in the 1937 film, Every Day’s a Holiday.

Puffed-sleeved gowns, lavish Scarlett O’Hara ‘barbeque’ dresses and tipped velvet hats were all the rage by 1939.

Schiap was also heavily influenced by contemporary artists from the growing Surrealist group in the Montparnasse quarter of Paris, including Man Ray and Salvador Dali. In a telegraph to the editorial offices of Photoplay Magazine listing highlights of the 1938 Paris fashion scene, costume designer, Edith Head, wrote: ”Paris says: Long waistlines, short flared skirts, fitted bodices, tweeds combines with velvet, warm colors…”

Jazz in 1930s Paris

And to unwind?  The intellectual elite and jazz hounds made a beeline for now legendary bistros including L’Ami Louis, Boeuf sur le Toit, La Coupole and The Vaudeville.

L’Ami Louis was legendary even back then, serving, it is claimed, “more game, especially ortolons and bécasses, than anywhere else in Paris, as well as a hundred lobsters every day”.

Picasso was allegedly a regular at Boeuf sur le Toit.  The ‘boeuf’ in this instance being French slang for a jam session.

The Vaudeville and La Coupole are two of the few remaining brasseries decorated by the Art Deco renowned Solvet brothers, La Coupole especially was frequented in the ‘30s by the likes of Man Ray and Josephine Baker.

Iconic sights around 1930s Paris

Developments such as the Le Stade de Roland Garros, home of the French Open – built at the end of the 1920s – became synonymous with progress and the modern world typified by Paris in the 30s.

TVs made an appearance in the homes of Parisians whilst Peugeot and Citroens became common sights on the city’s streets (even the odd Bugatti!).

In architecture, the geometric shapes created by Le Corbusier changed the face of the modern building.The Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la Vie Moderne took place in Paris in 1937. The Musée de l’Homme was founded by ethnologist, Paul Rivet, specifically for the occasion.

So there you have it – simmering with artistic geniuses, 1930s Paris built on the city’s unique cafe culture and reputation for innovation to become a mecca for artists, singers, actors, authors and designers. So if you fancy a Parisian adventure of your very own, Pierre & Vacances has a range of self catering aparthotels in the heart of the city.

Hugo Cabret is in cinemas 2 December 2011. 

 

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The Three Musketeers: All for one, and one for all!

September 23, 2011 3:46 pm
posted by Rebecca

 

From Oliver Reed and Charlie Sheen, to Mickey Mouse and Dogtanian, our love affair with the Three Musketeers shows no signs of waning.  With the imminent release of the new movie version (starring Orlando Bloom and Matthew Macfadyen) we thought the time was ripe to zone in on some of the locations associated with the original fab four (not forgetting D’Artagnan!) from Alexandre Dumas’ novel.

So here’s our guide to enjoying some swashbuckling adventures around France.

Head to Aquitaine and Midi-Pyrénées for: The real McCoy

Inspired by a 17th century work Memoires de d’Artagnan by Gatien de Cortilz de Sandras, The Three Musketeers is believed to be based on various historical characters who really existed

The real Porthos, Aramis and Athos as well as D’Artagnan all hailed from the Béarn region of Gascony.  Criss-crossing the borders of Aquitaine and Midi-Pyrénées will transport you to the home-land of these French Guard elite.

Issac de Porteau, Dumas’ Porthos, was born in 1617 in Pau and his manor is still standing, in the village of Lanne.  The Chateau de Porothos – where he retired from service – was damaged in an earthquake but restored in 2005.

Henry d’Aramitz, the inspiration for Aramis, was an abbot in the valley of Barétous, whilst Athos was based on Armand de Sillègue, who was born in the village of Athos-Aspis.  His cousin, Arnaud-Jean du Peyrer, Comte de Treville, Captain of the King’s Musketeers, lived at le Chateau de Trois-Villes in Tardets.  A private residence, the castle is open year-round bar June.

Charles Ogier de Batz de Castelmore, Comte d’Artagnan – who Dumas’ character is believed to be based on – was born in Lupiac in Gers.  Today the village is home to the D’Artagnan Museum, where visitors can learn the legend behind the hero. And you can also pay a visit to the Chateau of Castelmore, where Batz was born.

Also worth a visit is nearby Auch, the ancient capital of Gascony, to snap the statue of D’Artagnan.

Statue of D’Artagnan

And in Condom you can see the recently commissioned sculpture of the three musketeers by Russian artist, Zurab Tsereteli.

Sculpture of the three musketeers by Zurab Tsereteli

The Château d’Arricau-Bordes in Madiran, known locally as the ”ancienne résidence de d’Artagnan, le fameux mousquetaire’’, may not hold many musketeer relics but is worth a visit for the vineyards – as one of the oldest wine estates in France.   It was the 18th-century home of the Comte Jean-Paul Montesquiou d’Artagnan, uncle of the illustrious musketeer and D’Artagnan is said to have stayed in the property on numerous occasions.

The Château d’Arricau-Bordes in Madiran

And if you want to explore the region famous for the real musketeers, the Pierre & Vacances’ Residence Le Hameau du Lac, Marciac, offers self catering accommodation for all the family. 

Head to Rhône-Alpes for: Following in the Footsteps of Celebrity

If, like us, you’re a little bit in love with the 1973 film version starring Oliver Reed, Richard Chamberlain and Michael York, then you’ll want to make a beeline for Perouges at the foot of the Alps.  Whilst much of the film was shot on location in Spain (quelle horreur!), Perouges’s charming cobbled streets and old stone buildings appeared as a backdrop for certain scenes.

For comfortable self catering accommodation, the Aparthotel Annecy Centre is ideal for those wanting to wander in the footsteps of film stars. 

Head to Paris for: A Piece of the Action

A Three Musketeers pilgrimage wouldn’t be complete without retracing their steps in the capital, where the main protagonists lived.

Val-de-Grâce church on rue St Jacques in the 5th was commissioned by Anne of Austria, wife to Louis XIII and the French Queen in The Three Musketeers.  Legend tells that she originally built just the cloister, but when she had a son after 23 childless years of marriage, she had the church built in celebration.  Louis XIV himself is said to have laid the cornerstone for the Val-de-Grâce in a ceremony that took place April 1, 1645, when he was seven years old.

The real Cardinal Richelieu lived at number 21 Place de Vosges, the oldest square in Paris, from 1615 to 1627.

Place de Vosges

The musketeers of the novel lived very close to each other:

  •  Athos in Rue Férou – between St. Sulpice and the Luxembourg garden, a narrow street lined with high-walled courtyards and 17th century buildings.  Athos lived here, “two steps away from the Luxembourg Garden”, and it is here that he was wounded in a duel at the beginning of the story
  • Aramis in Rue Servandoni
  • Porthos in Rue du Vieux Colombier

When D’Artagnan arrives in Paris he finds lodgings on the Rue des Fossoyeurs.  Monsieur de Treville’s residence, is on the Rue du Vieux Colombier, which we later learn is where Porthos lives and which runs along the north side of the present place Saint-Sulpice, joined on the south side by Rue Férou, where Athos lives.

Rue de Fossoyeurs, where D’Artagnan used to live, is present-day Rue Servandoni, running parallel to Rue Ferou, between the church and the park.

Rue de Fossoyeurs

The dueling site where they all showed up to fight D’Artagnan was at the Carmes-Deschaux, Rue des Carmes.

The Louvre was the setting for various scenes in the novel as was the Luxembourg Palace.

And as a last homage, visit the crypt of the Pantheon where a number of French heroes are buried and where Dumas himself keeps company with the likes of Marie Curie, Victor Hugo and Louis Braille, the inventor of the script for the blind.

Alexandre Duma

And for those wanting to retrace the steps of the Musketeers’ Parisian adventures, Pierre & Vacances has a wide range of self-catering accommodation in the heart of Paris.

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The Best French Flea and Produce Markets

August 17, 2011 4:00 pm
posted by Rebecca

Everyone loves a bargain.  No-one more so than the French, from whom shopping at markets is a way of life. What better way to while away a Saturday or Sunday morning than browsing around stalls laden with pans and pots and fishing rods or heaving with delicious cheeses, locally grown asparagus and fragrant flowers.

Wherever you’re heading in France, here’s a guide to some of the best brocante, braderie and marché au puces.

Brittany – Quiberon

This small city at the tip of the thin Breton peninsula comes alive each Saturday morning (and Wednesdays in Port Haliguen to the east of Quiberon, during the summer months) with a lively produce market.  Expect to find delicious regional foodstuffs as well as fresh fish.  The perfect spot to shop for a picnic or gorge on freshly shucked oysters!

Accomodation: stay at the Residence Ker Avel

Nord-Pas de Calais – Braderie, Lille

For one weekend a year Lille becomes the bargain hunting capital of Europe as the Braderie fair takes over town.  Held each September, Braderie is renowned as one of the largest flea markets on the continent with over two million visitors flocking to steal a deal.

Over 200 km of pavements throughout old Lille are taken up with stalls selling paintings, antiques, ornaments, furniture and junk of every description over a full 48 hour period.

One particular highlight is the competition to see which restaurant can create the tallest pile of mussel shells from the signature dish of moules et frites.

If you can’t make the Braderie at Lille, Calais is an easy pit stop for day-trippers and ferry-philes, with two good produce and flower markets.   The market at Place d’Armes takes place on Wednesday and Saturday mornings at the centre of the old town.  Shop for flowers, flower bulbs and local food specialities including ostrich pâté, the savoury tart, flamiche, locally grown chicory, home-made honey, farm-produced jams, northern France’s famed fish soup, foie gras and speciality saucissons.

Another takes place at Place Crèvecoeur to the south of town on Thursday and Saturday mornings, great for fruit and vegetables.

Accommodation: Stay at the Village Belle Dune

Franche-Comté – Vieux Quartier, Belfort

The first Sunday of each month (except during January and February) sees the most famous flea market in the East of France set up shop with over 200 stalls in the old town.

Here you can snap up Alsatian bowls and milk pitchers, grey stoneware jugs, clocks from nearby Besançon, enamel plaques from Alsace, linens, books, toys, glassware, copperware and furniture.

Rhone Alps – Vieux Quartier, Annecy

The market in the old town at Annecy is renowned as much for its stunning setting on the edge of Lac d’Annecy, surrounded by mountains, as for its rustic regional wares.  As you’d expect, there are Alpine goods a plenty including cow bells, skis and paintings of mountain scenes.

The market runs throughout the day on the last Saturday of each month.

Accommodation: Stay at the Aparthotel Annecy Centre

Villeurbanne, Lyon (also known as ‘Puces’)

This legendary flea market takes place in Villeurbanne, on the outskirts of Lyon, every Sunday morning, with dedicated bargain hunters arriving at the crack of dawn.  There are more than 400 stalls of antiques, bric-a-brac, used goods and 18th and 19th century furniture.  A smaller version also takes place at the same site on Thursdays and Saturdays.

Paris – Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt

Ask any Frenchman to name a Parisian flea market and St-Ouen or ‘Clignancourt’ will be top of the list, acknowledged as the largest antiques market in Europe and the oldest in Paris.  There are more than 2,000 shops spread out over a nine mile radius selling cheap clothing, military surplus, shoes, sunglasses and leather goods.

The other main contender would be Porte de Vanves on Saturdays and Sundays for its eclectic mix of goods.  The Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves is more compact than Clignancourt with 300-plus stalls.

Also worth checking out is Richard Lenoir for all manner of foods, from the freshest meats, cheeses and produce to international foods and flavours.

Accomodation: Stay at the Aparthotel Paris Opera 

The Loire – Boulevard Alexandre Martin, Orléans

Held every Saturday morning in a car park on the Boulevard Alexandre Martin in the charming town of Orléans, this bustling market attracts around 100 vendors.  Bargain hunters will love this treasure trove of rustic items, ranging from tools and buckets to fishing rods, kitchenware and quality linen.

If it’s food you’re after, then head to the weekly Saturday morning market in Saumur, showcasing the best of the ‘garden of France’.

Take a look at Le Chant blog for lots more wonderful pictures: http://lechant.wordpress.com/2009/06/06/saumur-market/)

Provence and South of France

There are more markets than you can shake a stick at in the South of France.  Here are just a couple of favourites.

Cours Saleya, Nice

The flower and produce market at Cours Saleya operates every day bar Monday (when the square is taken over by the antiques and flea market).  There are hundreds of varieties of flowers grown locally in the fields of Provence including carnations, roses, camellias, lilies, irises, freesias, daffodils, cyclamen, chrysanthemums, azaleas, marigolds, daisies and gardenias.

Sunday is the best day for produce, fish, meats, cheeses, fruit and veg.

Accommodation: Stay at the Residence Heliotel Marine

Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, Avignon

On Saturday mornings 100 or so stalls set up just across the Rhone from Avignon at the Place du Marche along the Ave de Verdun, selling Provençal pots, pottery and bedspreads.  This market gets fewer tourists than the main Avignon flea market on Sundays, and as a result good deals can be found.

Accommodation: Stay at the Village Point Royal en Provence

Midi-Pyrénées – Allées Jules Guesde, Toulouse

Discerning shoppers will enjoy scouring this quality flea market for ‘decorative’ rather than rustic wares.  Held on the first Friday, Saturday and Sunday of the month throughout the day along the allées Jules Guesde in central Toulouse.

Accommodation: Stay at the Aparthotel Toulouse Aèroport 

Aquitaine – Perigueux

Wednesdays and Sundays are market day in Perigueux, the capital of the Dordogne River Valley.  Stalls are set up near the cathedral in Place de la Clautre selling fresh produce and cheeses.  There is also a market specialising in fois gras and truffles on place St-Louis in Puy St-Front from November to March.

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Five Great Cycle Routes for Families in France

June 30, 2011 1:10 pm
posted by Rebecca

With the Tour de France upon us – Saturday 2nd to Sunday 24th July – we thought we’d pay homage to the French love affair with pedal power.

Of course, you don’t need to be Lance Armstrong to enjoy France by bike… There are miles of meandering lanes, canal-side towpaths and beautiful stretches of coastal paths perfectly marked out for le vélo.

And there’s nowhere quite like France for a self-catering cycling holiday!  You’ll see more of the sights, meet the locals and have the opportunity to engage with the places you pass through.  Not to mention a rental apartment will give you the chance to sample local food, and the odd glass of wine…

It’s also a great way to enjoy a healthy and active holiday option – think of it as the summer equivalent to skiing!

The Voies Vertes, or Greenways, are an extensive network of dedicated cycle routes across France linking up nearly 2,600km of safe, marked paths.  So whether you want to embark on a week-long tour or an afternoon in the saddle, there are plenty of routes to choose from. Here are some of our top suggestions of the best places to get peddling.

The Loire à vélo, The Loire For châteaux fans

The Loire River

The Loire à vélo is an ambitious project linking two regions, six départements and six major urban areas over an 800km trail between Cuffy and Saint-Brévin on the Atlantic coast, two thirds of which run alongside the River Loire with its fabulous châteaux.

There are specific segments of the route between Muides sur Loire and Ancenis recommended for families, with a number of short distance options to choose from.

And to rest those tired legs between trips Pierre & Vacances have a range of self catering apartments in the Loire Valley.

Avenue Verte Dieppe-Forges, NormandyFor budding athletes

Normandy Countryside

Destined ultimately to link London with Paris in time for the 2012 Olympics, this 45km route runs from Dieppe on the Normandy coast to the spa town of Forges-les-Eaux along the former Dieppe to Paris railway line.

For now you’ll have to make do with some picture-perfect Normandy countryside with lots of apples and cider to help you on your way. And to kick-back and enjoy the views during your stay, Pierre & Vacances have a range of family apartment rentals in Normandy.

La Baie de Somme à Vélo, PicardyFor beach fans and bird watchers

Picardy Pastures

Le Baie de Somme is made up of seven trails, many kilometres of which run alongside the seashore, weaving through dunes, mudflats and reed beds full of migratory birds. The Baie de Somme railway carries cycles free of charge, so you can hop on and off and tackle as much or as little of the trails as you wish.  And to enjoy hopping around Picardy, Pierre & Vacances has a range of self-catering accommodation to rest those weary wheels.

Le-tour-de-Bourgogne-a-vélo, BurgundyFor vineyard fans

Burgundy countryside

The cycling tour of Burgundy, much like the Loire and Somme equivalents, is made up of five individual trails showcasing the region’s main attractions and eventually destined to cover 800km.

The route is made up of towpaths, paths through vineyards, disused railway lines and country lanes.  The Santenay-Nolay track, the ‘Voie des Vignes’, is particularly recommended for easy family cycling. And to make the most of your stay Pierre & Vacances has a range of holiday accommodation in Burgundy as a great base to explore the region.

Piste du canal de L’Ourcq, Paris For city slickers

Cycling along the canal de L’Ourcq

This cycle path alongside the canal offers a flat and picturesque option, great for a day out from Paris.  The route takes you from the Parc de la Villette in north-eastern Paris out into the countryside to Claye-Souilly, 27km from the city.  Ultimately this route is intended to link Paris with Moscow!

For a shorter route families can choose a pit-stop at La Poudrerie Forest Park at Servan, 14km along the canal. And to make the most of your stay in the area, Pierre & Vacances has a wide range of holiday apartments to rent in Paris with both scenic and central locations.

And for those after some serious cycling…

Here are two long-distance options for those seeking a serious cycling challenge!

Voie Verte Trans-Ardennes

Voie Verte Trans

This greenway is graded as an easy route, running 85 km in total between Charleville-Mezieres and Givet near the Belgian border.  The train which runs through the valley is a great back up option for tired legs. And as for accommodation along the route, Pierre & Vacances has a wide range of family self-catering rentals in Ardennes.

Canal du Midi, Languedoc-Roussillion/ Midi-Pyrenees

The Canal du Midi is a UNESCO World Heritage site, bordered almost all of the way by striking plane trees.  The route takes you through the heart of the beautiful South West countryside with ample opportunity to sample local wines and visit ancient towns and monuments.

Canal du Midi

The full route (240km) will take you from Toulouse along the canal to the little port of Marseillan on the Mediterranean, but can be broken down into stages for easily manageable chunks!

The other option is to head North West from Toulouse towards Bordeaux and the Atlantic Ocean along the Canal de Garonne, the full canal route originally designed to link the two coasts. For those wanting to make the most of a cycling holiday in the sublime region, Pierre & Vacances has a selection of self catering accommodation in the South of France .

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Classic French Recipes

June 1, 2011 3:58 pm
posted by Rebecca

Think of France and one of the first things to spring to mind will no doubt be delicious dishes full of fresh seafood, beautifully cooked steak and, of course, lashing of cheese.  From instant crowd pleasers like Moules Frites and Croque Monsieur to après ski favourite Raclette (with some more Frites and plenty of Fromage) and then there’s every school child’s nemesis, Escargot.  And of course there are the famous CrêpesTarte Tatin, Gateaux, Eclair, Crème Brûlée… is your mouth watering yet??

Of course there’s much more to traditional French recipes than just Crêpes andFrites…and it’s not all haute cuisine or cordon bleu either. So here are our all time favourite French regional recipes, more rustic than refined in most cases, but guaranteed to get your stomach rumbling!

The Alps…for après-ski comfort food

When most of us visit The Alps it’s for lashings of fresh air and winter sports, so we can be excused for wanting to sit down at the end of a hard day’s skiing to some truly hearty fare.  It’s little surprise that our favourite Alpine food relies heavily on cheese as the main ingredient! There are, of course, the delicious Fondue and Raclette but one of our favourites is Tartiflette.

Tartiflette is a truly indulgent dish, best appreciated after a strenuous morning on the ski-slopes — or at least a brisk winter’s morning walk. It is important to use a ripe Reblochon, preferably bought a few days in advance and left to reach maturity out of the fridge. Of course, if you have a good cheese monger you will be able to buy one ripe and ready to eat.

Here’s a recipe for the cheese delight, as taken from “The Food of France” by Sarah Woodward:

Tartiflette

Tartiflette

Ingredients:

[Serves 4]

1.5kg medium-sized red potatoes, such as Desirée

1 large white onion, peeled and diced

2 thick rashers of smoked streaky bacon, diced

25g butter

1 garlic clove, peeled and cut in half

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 ripe Reblochon cheese

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas mark 5.

Bring a large pan of water to the boil and cook the potatoes whole, in their skins, for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the onion and bacon in the butter in a heavy frying pan over a medium heat; they should sweat but not brown.

Drain the potatoes and as soon as they are cool enough to handle peel them — the quicker the better. Slice thickly across.

Choose an ovenproof earthenware dish and rub it well with the other halves of garlic. Layer half the sliced potatoes across the base, season, then scatter over the onion and bacon mixture. Add the remaining potatoes and more seasoning.

Place the whole Reblochon on top. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 180C/350’F/gas mark 4 for a further 20—25 minutes. The Reblochon should melt within its skin and the fat drip down while the potatoes crisp.

Tartiflette is a filling dish and all you really need to go with it is a nicely dressed green salad.

Try Tartiflette in the alps when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region, and booking for the 2011/2012 ski season starts on June 15th!

Alsace-Lorraine…for a German twist

The cuisine of this corner of north-eastern France brings together influences from neighbouring Germany such as Sauerkraut and marinated meat and veg stew, Baeckeoffe, with more typically French flavours.  Locals are masters of pickling vegetables, smoking meats, and packing sausages.

The region’s two legendary dishes are Foie gras and Quiche Lorraine: the word quiche is from the German “kuchen”, which means cake.  There is some debate about what constitutes a traditional Quiche Lorraine but we like the following recipe for its simplicity:

Quiche Lorraine

Quiche Lorraine

 

Ingredients:

Pie pastry

6-8 slices of bacon, diced

3 eggs

1 1/2 cup of whipping heavy cream

1 or 2 tsp of butter

1/2 tsp of salt

1/4 tsp of pepper

1 pinch of grated nutmeg

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 400° F (200° C)

Put bacon dices in boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes. Drain. Put in a pan and heat till brown. Drain again.

Roll out pastry in a pie pan. Pastry should come about 1″ up the sides.

Beat eggs, cream and seasoning. Add bacon.

Pour mixture on the pastry, no more than 3/4 of the pie pan.

Reduce heat to 300° F (150°C). Bake for 30 minutes or until pie is cooked. Put a knife in the middle, if it comes clean the quiche is ready.

Let the quiche cool. Do not remove it from the pan. Goes well with a salad.

Just a suggestion: Although traditional recipes do not include it, you can add Swiss cheese such as 1 Gruyère to the egg, cream and bacon mixture, [around 1 cup is best].

Try Quiche Lorraine in Alsace and Lorraine when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

Brittany and Normandy…for the sweeter things in life

Famed for Crêpes, apples, Normandy cider and Calvados, the north-western tip of France is the best place to head if you have a sweet tooth.  Apple and Calvados sorbet make a welcome appearances on many menus but our heads were turned by this recipe for Bretton Butter Cake, a classic version from Brittany.

Bretton Butter Cake

Brittany Bretton Butter Cake

Ingredients:

[Serves 6-8]

1 ounce instant dry yeast

1 teaspoon plus 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar, divided

3/4 cup lukewarm water

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 cup cold salted butter

1 egg yolk, beaten

Instructions:

Sprinkle the yeast and one teaspoon of sugar over the warm water and allow the yeast to dissolve for 5 minutes. Stir the flour into the yeast mixture until it forms a smooth, thick dough.

On a lightly floured surface, roll and stretch the dough into a large rectangle, about 9-inches by 13-inches. Dot the surface with 1/4 cup of the cold butter and sprinkle it with 1/4 cup of sugar. Fold the dough into quarters. Repeat the rolling and folding process again, three times.

Preheat an oven to 350F. Once the dough is folded into quarters the last time, fit it into a greased 9-inch round baking pan. Brush the surface of the dough with the egg yolk, sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, and bake it for 25 to 30 minutes, until it turns golden brown.

Allow the butter cake to cool in the pan for 10 minutes, run a thin, offset spatula or knife around the edges of the cake, and remove the cake from the baking pan. Serve the cake warm with berries or cream.

Try Bretton Butter Cake in Brittany when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts.

 

Central France…for heart-warming stews

It’s here in the heart of France that you’re most likely to find traditional dishes such asBoeuf Bourguignon and Coq au Vin.  A good French stew is not something to be rushed – and of course, the crucial ingredient is wine.

One of the most famous recipes from Burgundy is the one that includes its name, Boeuf Bourguignon. This version is adapted from that used by the chef at The Hotel Dieu, Monsieur Vernet:

Boeuf Bourguignon

Boeuf Bourguignon

Ingredients:

[Serves 4]

1.5 kg/3 1/2 lbs stew beef preferably taken from the shoulder or shin

50G/3 1/2 tbsp butter

5 tbsp olive oil

2 carrots

2 onions

small round onions

button mushrooms

100g/1/4 lb fresh bacon

20g/1/4 cup flour

2 cloves garlic (optional)

1 1/2 bottles red burgundy wine

castor sugar

1 bouquet garni

salt and pepper

Instructions:

Marinade the beef, together with a ‘garniture aromatique’ (bouquet garni, onions and carrots,) in the wine and leave to marinade overnight.

Brown thoroughly in oil the drained pieces of meat. Skim off the fat and then sprinkle them with flour.

Add the marinade, the bouquet garni, carrots and onions and cook on a low heat for two hours. During the cooking time glaze until brown some small, round onions, button mushrooms and bacon (cook them in just enough water to cover them and some butter), sprinkle with sugar, cover with tin-foil and cook until the water boils away. Stir from time to time to ensure an even glazing.

Mix with the beef mixture, check the thickness of the sauce and, if necessary, add some beurre manié (butter and flour.) The cooking can be finished in the oven, in a covered casserole, or even covered with flour.

Try Boeuf Bourguignon in Central France when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

Charentes…for seafood

From eel stew to steaming mussels, the gastronomy of the Poitou-Charentes is heavily based on seafood.   The mussel, an inexpensive mollusk, is prepared in many different ways in France, depending on the region.  The most spectacular is certainly L’éclade, a recipe from Charente Maritime. For this, the mussels are arranged on a bed of dry pine needles and set ablaze. After a minute or two they are cooked and ready to be eaten sizzling hot.

But this recipe is the simplest way to prepare mussels, and a perfect occasion to gather plenty of friends around the table for a huge steaming stock pot fragrant with white wine and shallots.

Mussels with White Wine and Shallots

Mussels with White Wine and Shallots / L’éclade

Ingredients:

5 to 6 pounds mussels, preferably the small bouchots

4 shallots

6 sprigs parsley

10 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup dry white wine

Freshly ground pepper

1 sprig thyme

Salt

Instructions:

Wash the mussels, scraping to remove their grassy “”beards”".

Peel and chop the shallots.

Remove the parsley leaves and chop them finely.

Melt 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large heavy skillet or saucepan.

Add the shallots and cook until wilted.

Add the wine, a sprinkling of pepper, and thyme.

Let simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the mussels, cover and cook over high heat, shaking the pan often so that all the mussels open at about the same time.

Take off the cover, remove the mussels as they open, and place them on a warmed serving platter.

When all the mussels have opened, empty the pan, and strain the cooking broth through a fine sieve.

Wipe out the pan and return the broth to it.

Cook briefly over high heat until boiling.

Cut the remaining butter into small pieces.

Remove the saucepan from the heat and whisk the butter into the broth a little at a time.

Correct the seasoning, if necessary.

Pour the sauce over the mussels, sprinkle with the chopped parsley, and serve.

Try Mussels in Charentes when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

Paris…for anything your heart desires (as long as it’s Croque Monsieur!)

Of course, all roads lead to Paris when it comes to food, where almost anything from the whole of France is available and where diners can pick and choose from more than 9,000 restaurants.

The immediate environs of Paris provide plentiful game but it’s arguably its pastries that the grande dame is most famed for.  That and its bread, the key ingredient to the legendary Croque Monsieur!

Who knows where the tasty snack originated from (the first recorded appearance on a Parisian café menu was in 1910) but today the city’s cafés have thousands of varieties on offer, each bringing their own unique interpretation to this classic dish.  Regional variations exist, with either tomato, Bleu d’Auvergne cheese, smoked salmon (instead of ham), sliced potatoes and Reblochon cheese or pineapple.

Croque Monsieur

Croque Monsieur

The classic recipe is hot ham and cheese (typically emmental or gruyère) grilled sandwich. Simple, quick and delicious!  Fast food at its most fabulous.

Try Croque Monsieur in Paris when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the city.

Picardy...for tarts and terrine

Picardy is known as the market garden of France with bountiful crops, an abundance of seafood and dishes with a distinct, earthy palate.  There’s an undeniable Spanish influence on the regional dish of Escaveche (escabeche in Spain), which is a cold terrine of sweet water fish in wine and vinegar, and Flemish influence on another terrine, PotjevleschAmiens Duck Pate draws the gourmands as does the Flamiche Leek Pie.

Flamiche aux Poireaux

Flamiche aux Poireaux

Ingredients:

2 round, puff-pastry crusts, uncooked

3 tablespoons butter

2 pounds (or more) leeks, cleaned and cut into 1/4 inch rounds (don’t use the tougher dark green part)

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

1/4 cup grated gruyère or similar cheese (optional)

salt and pepper

1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

1 egg yolk

Instructions:

[Serves 6]

Melt the butter in a frying pan on medium heat. Add the leeks and cook until soft – about 10 minutes.

Stir in the flour until mixed completely with the leeks. Pour in the milk and cook, stirring occasionally until the mixture thickens and comes to a boil – about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool about 5 minutes. Stir in nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste.

Meanwhile, line a nine inch tart or pie pan with one of the crusts. Brush the bottom of the crust with the egg yolk mixed with a couple of teaspoons of water. Pour the cooled leek mixture into the crust and top with the second crust. Roll the edges together so that the whole tart is sealed. Make a hole in the centre of the tart so that steam can escape as the tart is cooking and, if you wish, make a design on the top crust with a sharp knife.

Bake for 30 minutes at 375° F. Serve warm.

Try Flamiche aux Poireaux in Picardy when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

The Pyrénées…for deep-rooted culinary traditions

From black truffles to Foie Gras and Roquefort cheese, the food of the Midi-Pyrénées has made significant contributions to the wider French dining scene.  The region’s traditions and epicurean culture are deeply rooted and fiercely protected.  One of the dishes most synonymous with the Pyrénées is Cassoulet.

Cassoulet

Cassoulet

For the beans:

1 kg (2.2 lb) dried beans: either white navy beans, kidney beans, mojettes, pamier beans or Soissons beans, but the absolute best would be “tarbais” beans.

2 peeled carrots

1 onion, spiked with 3 cloves

1 bouquet garni (thyme, laurel, parsley)

1 large pork rind, cut into 2 halves

Meat:

8 lamb neck cuts (for taste)

8 lamb shoulder pieces, cut into squares of 100 grams (3 oz) each

8 pork loin pieces, cut into 100 grams (3 oz) cubes

8 mule fat duck thighs cut in half

8 pieces, 5 cm (2 inches) each, of Toulouse sausage (scalded and roasted)

Other ingredients:

200 grams (1/2 lb) of carrots and 200 grams (1/2 lb) of onions cut into small cubes

6 garlic cloves, crushed and degermed

1 bouquet garni

2 tablespoonfuls concentrated tomato paste

150 grams (5 oz) goose fat

150 grams (5 oz) bread crumbs

Instructions:

Soak the dry beans overnight in unsalted water.

Next day, put the beans in a large pot and cover them with new water, add the two carrots and the onion with the cloves, the bouquet garni and the pork rinds. Season with pepper and DO NOT SALT. Cook at a slow boil and do not forget to progressively skim the froth that forms on the surface.

Using a large ovenproof dish, sweat the vegetables: carrots, garlic, onions and the bouquet garni in some goose fat for 10 minutes, covering on low heat.

During this time use a large frying pan to brown all of the meats in some goose fat (until they are quite brown). Then retrieve and drain the pieces (in order to remove excess fat). Add tomato paste to the large casserole where you cooked the vegetable garnish.

Cook this mixture for two minutes and then add the meats and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, season with salt and freshly ground pepper. Place in the oven and cook at 350°F (180°C or th6), covered, for 2 hours.

Check if the beans are cooked. Once they are almost ready add salt and drain the beans (put the carrots in the large casserole that is already in the oven) and set aside.

Use a needle to check if the meats are well cooked. Next, use a fork and a skimmer to retrieve the meat and the bouquet garni. Be careful not to leave any small bones at the bottom of the dish. Remove excess fat from the remaining vegetables using a spoon. Mix these vegetables in a blender and then put through a sieve, pressing strongly in order to obtain a delicious vegetable sauce. Check and adjust the seasoning.

Put the meat, the beans, the sausage and the pork rinds, cut into 8 pieces, in a large terracotta dish (better known as a “cassole” hence the name of this recipe “cassoulet”) and sprinkle with bread crumbs. Cook in the oven for 20 minutes at 375°F (210°C ) and serve.

Try Cassoulet in The Pyrénées when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

South of France…for a taste of the Med

Whilst regional recipes found simmering in the south of France are still likely to involve stewing, the further you head the south, the more likely you are to encounter seafood or fragrant herbes de Provence in the mix.

The original Bouillabaisse (bouï abaisso in Provençal, meaning boil and press “bout et abaisse”) was from the Calanque coast between Marseille and Toulon , although it is said to be invented at Saint-Raphaël. Although called a soup, this is really a main dish, a full meal in itself.

Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse

[Serves 6-8]

Ingredients:

200ml / 1/3 pint of olive oil

2 onions thinly sliced

2 leeks trimmed and thinly sliced

3 tomatoes skinned seeded and chopped

4 garlic cloves crushed

1 sprig of fennel

1 sprig of thyme

1 bay leaf

1 strip of orange peel without pith

750g / 1 ½ lbs shell fish e.g. crab mussels, king prawns

2 litre / 3 ½ pints of boiling water

salt and pepper

2.5kg / 5 lbs of fish e.g. monk fish, sea bass etc.

4 pinches of saffron powder.

Instructions:

Heat the oil in a large pan add the onions, leeks, chopped tomatoes and garlic.

Sauté over a low heat for 2-3 minutes until soft stirring from time to time.

Stir in the fennel. thyme, bay leaf and orange peel.

Add the shell fish, boiling water and some salt and pepper.

Turn up the heat and boil for about 3 minutes.

Reduce the heat and add the fish continue cooking for 12 to 15 mins over a medium heat.

The fish should be opaque and tender but still firm.

When the fish is cooked adjust the seasoning.

Stir in the powdered saffron and serve immediately.

Try Bouillabaisse in the South of France  when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

South West…for something a little rich

The emphasis in south-western France is on rich foods – more truffles, more Foie Gras and duck.

Confit de Canard

Confit de Canard

Ingredients:

[Serves 4-6]

What you’ll need is 4-6 duck portions, rub salt into them and leave in a shallow covered dish for 5-6 hours.

Put your oven on low, 150 C/gas mark 2.

Wipe off the salt with kitchen paper and place all the pieces in a flameproof dish quite tightly, slightly brown both sides of the duck pieces very slowly, this can take 15-20 minutes.

Now cover your duck with enough duck fat to cover completely, pop it in your preheated oven for up to 2 hours. Then leave it to cool.

You can keep your duck preserved like that for a few days.

Instructions:

The idea is to warm the duck portions, not to cook again. The best way we found is to pan fry.

Heat a frying pan without any oil, as you already have duck fat around your pieces of duck.

Place the portions skin down and leave on a medium heat, do not move the pieces until they are a little crispy, then turn and do the other side.

‘Voila’ it’s ready!!

Serve with a salad or Potate Saladaise with Haricots Verts.

Try Confit de Canard in the South West of France  when you stay at one of Pierre & Vacances’ resorts in the region.

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