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Archive for the ‘Cote d’Azur / South of France’ Category
Gals on tour with Pierre & Vacances – Provencal coast, South of France
Having decided last minute to attempt some early summer sun in May last year we found a great deal with Pierre et Vacances at their Six Four les Plages residence on the Provencal coast (edge of Mediterranean), a quiet little seaside town between Marseille and St Tropez. The pool looked stunning on their website with views over a little harbour and the Med beyond so we were really looking forward to relaxing the southern French way!
The closest airport is Marseille, about an hour’s drive away, so the only drawback was having to hire a car and drive on the wrong side of the road to our residence. Yikes. That said the freedom of having a car to explore far outweighs the nerves.
We found cheap(ish) last minute flights with BA through Opodo (always worth a shot to find a good deal) and took off from Gatwick all a bubble of excitement at our week away from it all.
I’ve been to the South of France a few times, mainly Nice and Toulouse but never Marseille and from memory they drive like loons so I was pretty nervous about driving. We picked up our car, added SatNav (a must!) and went on our merry way.
And what a beautiful drive it was too and very easy once I’d stopped trying to change gears with the door handle. We passed through many pretty little towns and harbours before arriving at the residence. The reception staff were really welcoming and helpful and gave us loads of info for what to do in the local area.
The apartment was very nice and had all the mod cons we needed, the beds were comfy and the area was nice and quiet so a peaceful sleep was guaranteed. The view from the apartment (and my room in particular) was just beautiful, and we had a nice little terrace where we could watch the boats in the harbour and the sun setting each evening after a hard day at the poolside.
The pool was just as the website promised and as it was off peak there weren’t many kids around so all the more relaxing for us. For the first few days we just wound down, enjoyed the early summer sun and worked on our tan.
There was one main bar in the town, which just so happened to make the best Apple Mojito and a darned good goat’s cheese salad – oh alright I admit it, the waiter was very cute too. It also seemed to be the main hangout for all the locals making it an all the more authentic south of France experience, we felt like one of the gang – everyone was so friendly and welcoming.
We made the most of having the car and went on a day trip to St Tropez which is just over an hour’s drive away.
It was much smaller than I imagined but stunning just the same with one expensive boat berthed after another. Along the harbour local artists were promoting their paintings – some of which were really magnificent!
Whilst there we went on a boat trip to see all the holiday homes of the rich and famous dotted along the coast – Dodi Al-Fayed and George Michael amongst them. Some truly magnificent homes. Not envious at all.
It’s certainly a lovely town, with an abundance of designer shops, flash cars, expensive yachts and speed boats but it comes with equally as much pretentiousness which isn’t really my cup of tea but a definite must see. Give me my little bar in Six Four les Plages with the hot waiter and friendly locals any time!
We took a trip to the next town, Sanary sur Mer, on our last night and treated ourselves to a slap up meal in a lovely little French restaurant – again the staff were so nice and gave us the low down on where the food and wine were sourced from, recommending the best options on the menu and generally being friendly and chatty.
Altogether it was a really enjoyable and relaxing holiday, nothing too hectic and not too heavy on the finances either – I would certainly recommend and would go again!
Click here to view Pierre & Vacances’ amazing offers.
How to celebrate Christmas like the French!
Speak to any of our Gallic cousins and you’ll be told that Christmas is a very different affair in France. It’s all about the family and food. Sound a little too much like Christmas à l’Anglaise? Well there’s plenty more to drive home la difference. Here’s our guide to how to celebrate Christmas like the French.
And if you need further convincing, book yourself a trip across the Channel for a truly Joyeux Noël.
- Write To Santa
In France, Father Christmas is known as Père Noël or Papa Noël. He isn’t big and plump and ruddy but a tall, slim chap. In the east of the country he’s likely to be accompanied by Père Fouettard who keeps a tally of just who’s been naughty or nice, dolling out a spanking to those not deserving of gifts.
The French take Santa very seriously – a law was passed in 1962 decreeing that anyone writing to Père Noël must receive a reply.
The question of when to give presents is a potential hurdle to the uninitiated. Most provinces in France celebrate Christmas day on 25th December, but in Eastern and Northern France the season begins on 6th December on La Fête de Saint Nicolas, when children receive small gifts and sweets. There are other regional variations, such as the Fête de Lumières in Lyons on 8th December. Many adults don’t exchange gifts until New Year’s Eve or even New Year’s Day.
And rather than stockings hung by the fire, French children leave their sabots or shoes out on Christmas Eve (you’ve got to hope you’re a size 9 rather than 6!).
- Deck The Halls
Despite laying claim to the invention of the Christmas tree – originating in Strasbourg in 1605 – the French don’t invest as much significance in the festively decorated fir as the Brits. (If you do opt for a tree, don’t forget your tasteful red ribbons.) And whilst mistletoe is often hung above the door for good luck, the main decorative focus is the crèche or the equivalent of our nativity scene. Filled with wooden or clay figurines of santos or saints, the crèche features in many French homes and churches. Living crèches are common, in the form of plays and puppet shows, and a tradition has grown up in the south of France for craftsmen to make the figures year round – legend tells that the moulds have been passed from generation to generation since the seventeenth century. Don’t be surprised to see random characters such as local dignitaries, butchers, bakers and policemen.
- Fatten Up The Turkey
Unlike in the UK where Christmas day dinner is the main event, in France the tradition is to celebrate le Réveillon (traditionally after midnight mass) on Christmas Eve. Confusingly many French also mark le Réveillon on New Year’s Eve, often going out with friends or enjoying a variant of the Christmas menu at home. If you’re planning on spending New Year in France it pays to book your preferred restaurant early if you want to usher in the New Year with a meal out.
The menu various from region to region, but common attributes will be special-occasion foods served over multiple courses. Typical dishes include:
- Goose in Alsace
- Turkey in Burgandy
- Oysters and foie gras in Paris
To truly follow form the meal should include an aperitif such as Kir Royale, canapés, entree, a plat principal or main course (preferably stuffed with chestnuts), and dessert. The is one course the French all agree on, the chocolate Yule log, or Buche de Noel (not to be confused with the actual Yule log which is made out of cherry wood and sprinkled with red wine to make it smell nice when burning).
Other festive culinary – or quaffing – highlights include Beaujolias Nouveau. The new wine is re-released on the third Thursday of November and, never a wine to hang around, tradition holds that the entire stock has to be consumed by New Year.
It’s not all about the meal on Christmas Eve – La Galette des Rois is an almond cake baked to celebrate the Fête des Rois on January 6th, the twelfth day of Christmas. The cake has a charm or toy crown inside and whoever finds it is dubbed King or Queen for the day.
- Silent Night
Aaand relax. Christmas Day in France is typically a quiet affair, time for the family to come together and relax. Without the emphasis being all on the one day, December 25th is just one chapter in the yuletide celebrations. Time to recharge before the big New Year event!
- A French Carol – Un Chant de Noël Français
‘Vive le Vent’( Jingle Bells)
Vive le vent, vive le vent, vive le vent d’hiver
Qui s’en va, sifflant, soufflant
Dans les grands sapins verts, Oh !
Vive le temps, vive le temps, vive le temps d’hiver
Qui rappelle aux vieux enfants
Leurs souvenirs d’hier !
Sur le long chemin
Tout blanc de neige blanche
Un vieux monsieur s’avance
Avec sa canne dans la main
Et tout là-haut le vent
Qui siffle dans les branches
Lui souffle la romance qu’il chantait petit enfant
Christmas Holidays in France – Do it Style!
- Christmas in The Alps
5* Premium Les Crets in Meribel stands above the resort and enjoys uninterrupted views over the Tueda lake and the ski area. The building, in typical Savoie style, has undergone major renovation: apartments have been enlarged and redecorated in warm colours, and top-of-the-range furnishings and equipment installed.
Accommodation for 4 people sharing for one week starts at €1490 during the Christmas period.
- Christmas accommodation in the Cote d’Azur
4* Pont Royal Holiday Resort offers small residences no taller than 2 floors with views of the lake, golf course or surrounding hills. The apartments are near shops and activities. The houses are on the edge of the village. Most of the Provencal farmhouses are on the edge of the golf course.
Accommodation for 4 people sharing for one week starts at €2373 during the Christmas period.
- Christmas in Paris
Adagio Paris La Defense Le Parc, located in the Faubourg de l’Arche district, this new 12-storey architecturally modern residence with rounded lines offers conformable air-conditioned apartments, most of which open onto terraces or balconies. Facing a 1-hectare landscaped park, it is also close the shopping and business centre of La Défense.
Accommodation for 4 people sharing for one week starts at €1211 during the Christmas period.
Check the Pierre & Vacances website for it’s amazing two nights for free Christmas ski offer!
PV-Holidays: Self catering and the city: Marseille
As canny city break addicts are quickly discovering, the cheapest way to explore Europe’s finest cities is to check into a self-catering apartment.
Whether you’re escaping for a romantic weekend , or looking forward to a cultural tour , cooking up your own meals means you can easily cut down the cost of your trip.
Swapping an expensive hotel for a self-catering apartment doesn’t mean foregoing comfort or central locations. You’ll find a vast choice of clean, modern apartments in Paris to Rome, situated in the heart of the action.
And why not pack a glossy cookery book, forage in the markets for delicious local produce and whip up gourmet treats in the comfort and privacy of your own little home from home?
Each week, we’re featuring a city break destination with money-saving tips and the best self-catering apartment deals to ensure you get the most out of your hard-earned cash.
The best of Marseille – for less!
For young urbanites, Marseille , France’s second biggest city, offers enough in the way of nightlife hedonism to keep the most demanding of party animals entertained with the added bonus of fabulous sea views.
Located on the shores of the Mediterranean coast at the western end of the Cote d’Azur, the port city of Marseille is an intriguing patchwork of picturesque quarters and gritty urban neighbourhoods making it an exciting alternative to Paris for affordable holidays and weekend breaks in France.
Get your bearings
Marseille is a big city comprising 16 arrondissements and a total of 111 different quartiers, each with its own distinct flavour and attractions. You won’t have time to explore it all but the top areas include La Canebière and La Plaine for shopping, fashion, bars and people watching,
Cours Julien for cafes and nightlife and Vieux Port (the Old Harbour), the city’s bustling hub by day and night.
Harbour lights
Whether you’re an amateur photographer in search of photogenic hotspots or simply want to hang out with a cold beer, the Vieux Port (Old Harbour) is the city’s star attraction. Here, you can watch the fishing boats by day and dance ‘til dawn in the hippest nightclubs – housed in converted fish auction rooms – on the quai de Rive Neuve.
The famous Canebière avenue, the city’s main street, where you’ll find the Fashion Museum (Musée de la Mode), runs straight down the harbour.
First stop – the markets!
You can eat your way around the world in Marseille and stay on budget if you take advantage of the city’s numerous fresh fish markets, farmers markets selling local produce and fabulous ethnic markets selling north African delights.
Place Jean Jaurès, the bustling square also known as La Plaine, has a huge market on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Get up early, stock up your fridge and enjoy fresh local dishes in the comfort of your own self-catering apartment.
Cultural attractions
Exploring landmarks of the more high-brow kind will cost you nothing and the key sights include the Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde, the Cathedral Museum of the Roman Docks, and the Puget sculptures at the town hall.
Take a stroll along Boulevard Longchamp towards the Palais Longchamp, home to magical grounds with waterfalls, ornamental lakes, fountains and sculptures. The palace also houses Marseilles’ Fine Arts Museum and the Natural History Museum.
Sea views come free of charge when you saunter along the Corniche: a walkway and a road along the coast and don’t forget to check out Le Panier, the oldest quarter of the town where you’ll find Vielle Charité, a charming old monument converted into a museum and exhibition space.
Boat trip
For just a few Euros, you can jump on a ferry for the 20-minute boat ride to visit Château d’If, the 16th-century island prison immortalised in Alexandre Dumas’ The Count of Monte Cristo. Ferries leave every hour from the quai de la Fraternité on the Old Harbour.
Cheap eats
Marseille’s famous signature dish – bouillabaisse – a delicious seafood soup doesn’t come cheap in the smarter eateries on the quayside but you will be able to feast like a local in the more laid-back no frills restaurants located on rue Pavillion, Le Panier and Cours Belsunce.
If your French is up to it, eat with the locals and quaff affordable wines at Bar de L’Hotel de Ville in the Old Port – a lunchtime institution for Marseille workers. Alternatively, make the most of the city’s north African connections and sample the numerous kebab restaurants along the Cannebiere. And don’t forget to try the local sweet treat – the delicious fours de navettes biscuits.
Shopping
Go foraging for bargains in the area around the Noailles sub-way station, which looks m
ore like a north African souk than a French shopping centre. The streets are crammed with Arabic and Indo-Chinese shops selling everything from clothes to craftwork and nick-nacks.
People watching
Marseille’s hippest hang out and the place to see and be seen is Le Cours Julien – Cours Ju those in the know – and nearby La Plaine. Here, you’ll find a cluster of bookstores, bars, cafés, and sun-splashed squares with fountains.
The party hotspots are found at the harbour, and there are also many bars around St Julien, off rue de Rome and place de Préfecture.
Picnic in the park
Situated just 300 metres from the seafront, the vast Parc Borély is where to head for a siesta under the shade of a tree or a picnic lunch. Here, you’ll find an 18th century country house, ponds and lakes and charming botanical gardens and tropical greenhouses.
Admission is free! Nearby Escale Borely with its numerous restaurants and bars on the beach is the perfect spot for a sundowner.
Sleeping in Marseille
French self-catering holiday specialists P&V is offering seven nights in a studio apartment for two at the Adagio Marseille Prado Plage residence from just 469 Euro in March.
Newly renovated, with a heated swimming pool, this comfortable residence is located in the heart of the quarter of Le Prado, 100 metres from the beach, via the Avenue du Prado or the Corniche. For further information and latest deals for summer 2009, visit www.pv-holidays.com.
PV-Holidays: Family holiday to Carmargue
Our latest customer blog comes from Glenn Ridgett who recently visited Camargue with his wife Debbie and his son Leon, aged four.
Here is what Glenn had to say about his visit:
”I’d always been intrigued by tales of the Camargue as it seemed such a mash of contradictions. In a country famed for its mountains the Camargue is flat, in a land that defends its culture the Camargue owes much of its traditions to both Spain and ancient Rome and at a time when the world has gone very PC the Camargue still enjoys bullfighting!
Since settling in the Aveyron, 2 hours from the Med, in May this year with my wife Debbie and four year old son, Leon, we’ve generally been soaking up the rural French country idyll and enjoying the lush green hills around out little paradise of St Geniez d’Olt. With winter coming on I though it a good idea to make a final dash for the Mediterranean and enjoy a few al fresco meals before turning our attention to winter pursuits such as log fires, skiing and long, long lunches.
We chose the Maeva resort adjacent to Arles and booked a 2 bedroomed villa at the Résidence Maeva Les Mazets de Camargue for a three day weekend break.
Getting There
Having loaded up our trusty Custom Chevvy Astrovan (think ‘A Team’), we headed south onto the A75/E11.
This road is now the trans France equivalent of Route 66 as ‘it winds all the way to Montpellier, taking in great views all the way’ and is probably the route you are going to take if you’re heading from the UK to the Cote d’Azur, Camargue, Languedoc Roussillon or even Spain (remember to turn right for Bezier!).
This road has a lot going for it. Firstly, from Clermond Ferrand to Montpellier you have 333km of free French motorway.
Secondly, you will pass over the Millau (pronounced Me-You) Viaduct, probably the most beautiful thing ever made out of concrete, its central spire rising 1000ft in the air and allow yourself to swell with British pride as it was designed by Sir Norman Foster.
Thirdly, you’ll enjoy great scenery all the way which changes, almost as you cross the bridge, from picture postcard rolling hills of emerald to a much drier Mediterranean, wine producing, flatter, big blue sky environment.
Incidentally, if you were to drive all the way from Dieppe to Arles you’d be on the road for something approaching 9 hours and 575 miles.
Getting to Camargue
Caution: It seems that Maeva are trying to keep this site to themselves, its very well hidden, in a lush secluded spot and you will be glad you persevered. We cheered when the friendly gate keeper confirmed that we had, at last, found the site and assuring us that, ‘A lot of people do that’, he directed us to the main reception.
The reception was a model of efficiency and we were greeted by a smiling receptionist who astonished us with her perfect English. Where we live no-one speaks English – even if they do, they don’t!
We were given crisp linens (take your own towels), remote controls for the security gates, keys and very comprehensive maps of the site and the area.
Our accommodation comprised of a spacious, brightly decorated house, with air con, well equipped kitchen, modern bathroom, downstairs WC and two generous bedrooms.
An unexpected bonus was the covered patio and (semi) private garden although my son’s favourite thing was the electric roller blind at the patio door which was in constant use all weekend.
Exoploring Camargue
We decided to explore on our bikes and were amazed at the extent of the grounds and the facilities on offer.
At this time of year (early November) we were surprised by the range of all weather activities that were available, the list included tennis (indoor and out) with professional coaching, squash, golf, mini golf, horse riding, gymnasium, sauna, massages, bike hire, stretch classes and, an instant hit with my four year old, a games room with free Nintendo.
Most of the activities were included with equipment freely available and those that weren’t had reasonable charges. Leon had taken a fancy to the riding stables and he was delighted when we suggested a ride on a pony.
He was given a charmingly docile animal ironically named ‘Diablo’ and we were allowed to roam the grounds with this trusty steed and contentedly grinning child yelling ‘yeehaa’ and ‘giddy-up’ to Diablo who was having none of it!
Local Area
You could easily while away a holiday without ever leaving the resort, particularly in Summer when you would have a choice of several pools and organised activities throughout the day. We, however, were determined to explore and asked for recommendations at the reception.
Our charming English speaking receptionist suggested that we head over to St Gilles (10 minutes away) as they were having a festival which involved a street market (probably my wifes favourite phrase) and a bull run though the town.
We arrived in St Gilles to find the main road lined with temporary, bull restraining grills and there was certainly evidence of bull and horse ‘activity’ underfoot.
Seconds later were heard the thunder of hooves and colourfully dressed horsemen galloped on beautiful white Camargue horses, they were herding some angry lookin
g black bulls along the road and into pens. My wife was so smitten with the scene that she waited almost five minute before descending on the street market opposite.
The next day we went into Arles which is less than two miles from the Maeva complex. This is a very classy town with elegant parks, restaurants and shopping and some amazing Roman ruins including a well preserved 30,000 seat amphitheatre.
We were soon climbing all over this ancient ruin and were amazed to learn that it was still in use for concerts and corridas (bullfights).
Incidentally, we also visited the well preserved amphitheatre in Nimes (25 minutes away) if you’ve only enough interest in such things, save yourself for Nimes as the staging of the venue including an incredibly detailed free audio guide, is exceptional.
The bull is an important animal in these parts and features in many statues, paintings, logos and recipes. Try the Taureau Gardiane which is a local speciality available at most restaurants.
Missed Opportunies
Had we more time we could also have visited nearby Avignon,and explored one of dozens of local vineyards, gone deeper in search of traditional Camargue horse culture or even pushed on to the Cote d’Azur for a bit of glitz. There are numerous museums, both of fine art and ancient history, and noteworthy historic sites that we will visit next time.
The area has inspired many famous artists and you will find yourself sitting in parks and at cafes that have been featured in the works of Van Gogh.
Summary
This is a very interesting place that offers you many exciting holiday possibilities and, for the most part, is still not on the British holiday map.
The PV-Holidays Residence Maeva Les Mazers de Camargue offered an ideal base for a family holiday and during peak season would be a riot of activity in a safe and convenient location. With every type of accommodation on offer from studios to two bedroomed houses and even a fully catered Hotel, the PV-Holidays Hôtel Maeva Les Villages du Soleilthere’s something for everyone.
We had enjoyed three days of truly Mediterranean weather (in November) and taken all meals outdoors. As we crossed the Millau Viaduct heading home the green hills of the northern Aveyron were covered in mist and it won’t be long (fingers crossed) before they’ll be covered in snow. Mmm, now there’s an idea!”
Current Special Offers in Camargue
PV- Holidays currently offer three properties in the area, and below are our offers for the upcoming month:
The Pierre Vacances Residence Club le domaine de l’Estajan has a 4 person studio available from just 210 euros, for 7 nights from 19th November to the 26th November. Situated near to the protected Marais de Vigueirat Park, it is ideal for small families and for those needing easy access, as this particular property is all at one level. There are also a large of amount of leisure activities available on site, ranging from crazy golf to bicycle hire, and the usage of a sauna.
The Pierre Vacances Hotel Maeva les villages du Soleil which was mentioned in the blog, currently has a double room available for 434 euros for 7 nights from 22nd November-29th November.
The property that Glenn and his family stayed at the Pierre Vacances Residence Maeva les Mazets de Camargue, you can see a video tour and a virtual visit of both the area and the property here.
If you are considering a short break in France before the busy Christmas hits, and are looking for a self-catering apartment, please take a look at our website for more information.
